Fire & Ice: a pandemic escape to Iceland - part 8 - the last days

The last two days and our departure

The following day we returned to Keflavik, went to the Oryggis Rapid Antigen Covid-19 test centre, adjacent to the airport, dropped the car, and were then driven by Örl to the ION Nesjavellir hotel, where we spent our last two nights in Iceland, enjoying wild scenery, good food, interesting cocktails using Icelandic ingredients and Söl, and the hot pool. Our last morning was spent in the hot pool, then to Keflavik to catch our flight out of Iceland. We had, by virtue of several phone calls, succeeded in booking a flight to Heathrow, and succeeded in checking in (among crowds of others negotiating long lines created by extensive pandemic management procedures, no doubt) with the help of friendly and helpgul Icelandair staff, who managed the fact that our original return flight had been to New York and we were now heading for London. 

We took advantage of this unplanned route to spend a couple of weeks in the UK, visiting friends, family, and exploring a bit of Wales in the process, before flying home via Madrid.

Iceland was enchanting, literally, in the sense that it casts a spell which attracts you to the mountains, waterfalls, hot springs, and to the people, who were friendly and helpful. We will return. 

 

 

 

 

 

Alan & Marce, 2021 July/August

Fire & Ice: a pandemic escape to Iceland - part 7 - South Iceland

 

South Iceland

 

Höfn is probably the point at which one reaches South Iceland. We headed along the south coast, progressively working our way westwards, with a couple of loops along the way. The coast is dominated by high cliffs in same areas, and glaciers which approach the coast more closely than in the rest of Iceland.

 

We visited Hoffelsjökull, Fláajökull, and Heinabergsjökull, all of which were relatively quiet, unlike the popular Fjallsárlón lagoon, which we visited the following day and which is clearly a major tourist stop. It’s easy to see why since the lagoon is filled with floating ice from the glacier behind it. 

 

 

 

 

 

We stayed at the Fosshotel Glacier Lagoon, once again to have good internet access for work obligations. As mentioned, we visited Fjallsárlón the following day, then made our way to Múlagljúfur Canyon, a really beautiful canyon with high waterfalls in the canyon walls. We were fortunate in terms of weather on our ascent, however it started raining on our way back down, and on arrival at the car we made hot soup which was most welcome in the cold rain. 

 

Our next stop was Skaftafell, where we walked to Svartifoss; then we headed for Vik Campground. Vik is a main centre for the south coast, and the campground is huge. It’s close to the famous “Black Beach” (although there are other black beaches on the coast, this is the one publicized most). The following morning we walked down to the Black Beach, then to “KatlaTrack” to take a “Glacier Tour” with Sigrunharpa Grietasdottir in a giant 4x4 Ford Club Wagon. This took us up to the glacier edge, where we put on crampons to walk into the icea and explore an ice cave, as well as enjoying the scenery. 

 

 

 

From Vik we headed into the highlands again, via the less used route into Landmannalaugur, crossing rivers many times on the way to the popular campsite. The last river crossing, which is actually two crossings, is quite deep and so we watched others cross before doing so ourselves. The camp site is extensive, there is a hot spring a short walk away, and there were many visitors, who had come to enjoy this amazing scenery and to walk from the campsite. It’s possible to take multi-day walks through the mountains, however we did a one day walk in beautiful weather, returning to camp for dinner. 

 

 

From Landmannalaugur we headed out of the area by the more frequented route, stopping at Hrauneyar, the unexpected waterfall at Háifoss, at Gjáin – an enchanting dell with multiple waterfalls, at Stöng Viking long house, at Hjálparfoss, and finally at Þjórsárdalur Camping Ground (Sandártunga). 

 

The next day was a day of many waterfalls (Gullfoss, Hlauptungufoss, Midfoss, Brúarfoss), the Geysir (Strokkur) site, with multiple geysers, and we camped at Laugarvatn after a stop at Fontana hot springs.On the following, misty, morning we stopped at Urriðafoss, Eldstó (Volcano) Art Café, Gluggafoss, then Gljúfrabúi/Seljalandsfossm, and Nauthúsagil Waterfall where we walked the ravine before continuing into Þórsmörk, along a road following the river bed which ultimately provide to be too much for the car, whose clearance meant that progress was too slow to be practical, so we returned and headed for Kvernufoss and then the impressive Skógafoss. We camped in the site immediately below the falls, with a view of Skógafoss from the tent. The next day we visited Hvolsvöllur, Vínbúðin, Þingborg Ullarverslun (wool centre), Gallery Flói & Wool Centre, and then Kerið crater, walking around the crest of the crater before heading to Friðheimar, which is a tomato farm, although this doesn't do justice to the place which has a huge production of tomatos and a restaurant inside the greenhouses, with (not surprisingly) tomato-based cuisine, and which is very popular on the “Golden Circle” tourist route. In the afternoon we visited Selfoss, where we camped. 

 

 

We were well aware of the Fagradalsfjall Volcano, which had been in eruption since prior to our arrival in Iceland, and which was still erupting. We learned in the morning that temporary parking had been established close to the volcano, from which trails were allowing access to viewpoints from which the eruption could be seen. So we chose to take advantage of the opportunity, made for the volcano, and climbed to the first main viewpoint, from which the amazing sight of lava bursting from the volcano could be seen. It was also possible to walk to the lava front (the lave now having cooled) to see fresh lava which had flowed down the valley. The spectacle was amazing, and our time was very well spent taking the opportunity to see the volcano “in action” on a beautiful sunny day, on our last day with the car.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alan & Marce, 2021 July/August

Fire & Ice: a pandemic escape to Iceland - part 6 - the East Fjords

The East Fjords

 

Initially we headed for Seyðisfjörður, featured in the recent Walter Mitty film, with a long winding descent into the fjord. This is where the ferry from mainland Europe arrives and so is frequented by visitors heading into Iceland, or on their way home again. The campsite was full, however we set up at the edge of the access road, which was reasonably close to the ablutions. We dined at the good restaurant in the Hotel Aldan. The following day we walked around the town after coffee and croissants at Aldan. On our exploration we found that it was a National Holiday, however we were able to visit the Skaftell Art Gallery. 

 

We then headed for Stuðlagil Canyon, which has amazing columnar basalt as the walls of the canyon. We spent a short time, in the rain, on the west bank, and then found our way to the car  park on the east bank, from which we walked to the canyon and back, fortunately in good weather. From here we took F910 over the mountain to Hafrajvammagljúfur/Kárajnjúkastifla dam, then north again to Hengifoss campsite, which proved to be quiet, tranquil, and set in a grassy area among trees below the cliffs We enjoyed beers at the Guesthouse, and chatted with the very friendly lady running the site. This was one of the most welcoming and enjoyable camp sites in the trip. 

 

 

The following day we visited the Hengifoss Visitor centre and then headed back into the highlands to the Snæfellski Hut; we had thought to head further into the highlands from here however rain had swollen the river we had to cross to the point where it seemed hazardous to push the car and so we strolled around the area, with glaciers hanging above us on the mountain, then returned to the Hengifoss Valley and walked up to the waterfall. 

 

 

 

We stopped for a late lunch at the Kol Restaurant in Hótel Hallormsstaður,  which is set in what is described as the largest remaining forest in Iceland. From there we headed back to the coast to camp at Reyðarfjörður. The following day took us to a walk at Hólmanes point, to a bried exploration of Neskaupstaður, and then a walk to Páskahellir (Easter Cave), after which we visited Klifbrekku waterfall, Mjóifjörður, and then headed to Egilsstaðir, where stayed at the Edda Hotel so that we could take advantage of a good internet connection.

 

Leaving Egilsstaðir we enjoyed Vök Hot Springs, one of the more “upmarket” thermal springs, did some groceray shopping, and then took the Öxi road to Berufjörður, then Fossardafoss, Djupivogur (to see the Eggs), and finally to Höfn campsite

Alan & Marce, 2021 July/August

Fire & Ice: a pandemic escape to Iceland - part 5 - North Iceland

 North Iceland

 

The transition to North Iceland is at (more or less) Borðeyri where we camped. The following day we headed to Hvammistangi where we wanted to visit the Iceland Seal Centre. This visit ended up in our participation in the annual seal count, which was a very enjoyable opportunity to walk the coastline in our designated count area. We returned to the Centre to submit our seal count form, finding that we were the first back (principally owing to our having misunderstood the start time, however the officials were happy with the result).

 

From here we made our way into the Highlands for the first time, via F35 (for which 4x4 is required), and reached Hveravellir Lodge in high winds and rain. Camping was out of the question however we were able to rent a cubicle in the Hut (shipping Container 4) and after setting up in this tiny space went to the geysers to enjoy the hot springs.

 

Our next port of call was the excellent Icelandic Textile Centre at Blönduós, after which we headed for Akureyri, stopping for lunch at the surprising Ethiopian restaurant, where we ate well with with Jimi Hendrix on the sound system.  We enjoyed Hófsos pool before continued around the coast to Akureyri.

Akureyri is Iceland’s second city and offers a wide range of attractions; we visited the Botanical Garden, where we focussed on the Arctic and Sub-Arctic sections, the Akureyri Art Museum, the Motorcycle museum, with a surprisingly extensive range of bikes, and did some shopping for the next few days of camping.

 

We then made our way eastwards, via Systragil, with a pleasant campground set in a forest site, and then embarked on a more intensive trail of waterfalls than hitherto: Aldeyarfoss, Hrafnabjargafoss, and Godafoss, and Ædarfossar, among others, prior to reaching Húsavik. 

 

 

Ásbyrgi Canyon is a fascinating point at which the floor of the canyon is created by geological slumping, or if you prefer – by the footstep of Sleipnir, Odin’s steed. Among other attractions we explored more waterfalls – Hafragilsfoss, Dettifoss, and Selfoss prior to reaching the Myvatn Lake area, camping at Hlíð Campsite which became our base for exploration of  Krafla, Leirhnjúkur, the Myvatn power information centre, then Hverir where we walked up to the peak (and back).  We visited the littoral craters (“pseudo-craters”) at  Skútustaðir, Dimmuborgir lava field, Hverfjall, and later to Myvatn Springs.

 

 

On our way back to the coast we stopped at Dettifoss again, on the east bank, walking both Dettifoss and Selfoss then driving to Hafragilsfoss.  We then travelled into the northernmost area of Iceland, part of which lies north of 66.5 degrees latitude, so could arguably be described as being in the Arctic, although the actual Arctic Circle latitude varies and at this time the only part of Iceland in the Arctic is Grimsey Island. We visited Nyhöfn, walked to Rauðinúpur Cape (and back), and stopped briefly 1 km south of Hraunhafnartangi lighthouse so 3 km north of 66.5 degrees north. Arctic Henge is an interesting modern monument, worth a stop. 

 

 

 

We camped inside Tjaldsvæði Raufarhafnar Campsite, Raufarhöfn. The site is protected by an earth wall, presumably to provide shelter from the wind. From here we went to Rauðanes, visiting “bridge rock”, and then continued to Þórshöfn, then to Gljúfursárfoss. From here we headed into the East Fjords. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alan & Marce, 2021 July/August

Fire & Ice: a pandemic escape to Iceland - part 4 - The Westfjords

 

The Westfjords

 

This region is similar to the west coast of Norway, although the fjords are less steep rising from the sea. Even so it was fascinating to travel the length of each one of the fjords with the road on the opposite shore visible and knowing that it might take an hour or three to reach the other side. We enjoyed this remoter area a great deal, visiting deserted beaches and walking below steep cliffs. We saw Brekkuvellir Beach and the Kleifaheiði monument on our way to the cliffs at Latrabjarg where we had been assured that we would see puffins, which we found easily, along with razorbills, fulmars, and gulls - various). Latrabjarg is the westernmost point in Iceland – after that it’s Greenland and Canada. We camped at Breiðavik campsite and enjoyed local beers at the Hotel. From here we explored the Hnjótur Museum, Rauðisandur & Melanes Beach, Patreksfjördur, and spent some time at the Sea Monster Museum in Bíldadalir. The hot pool at Reykjafjarðarlaug was a welcome stop, and we also visited Dynjandi Foss before reaching Þingeyri which has several points of interest including the fascinating, and still operating, Blacksmith’s Shop - Vélsmiðjan Guðmundur J. Sigurðsson & Co. PU laundry. 

 

 From Þingeyri, prior to heading further northeast we explored the alleged "Worst Road in Europe" which skirts the coast northwest. We didn't make the whole circuit around the coast, which includes a section traversing a pebble beach, but went as far as the lighthouse at Svalvogaviti. The drive was excellent. 

 

The "worst road in Europe"

Our next main stop, with several sights on the way there, was Flateyri, where the Old Bookshop inevitably drew us in. The Dried Fish Museum was interesting – an original building within which were stories and displays of the fishing tradition. We continued to the trailhead for Valagil Falls and walked through the valley, finding to our surprise that the falls are not those which one initially thinks are the destination, but a waterfall hidden until one arrives close by.  

 

Heydalur campsite is in the grounds of a lodge where local, and delicious, beer can be enjoyed, following which a visit to the hot pools is appropriate. When we continued the following day we were pleased to encounter Long-finned Pilot Whales in Ísafjördur, before visiting several sights along the way eastwards (in general – getting anywhere involves multiple changes of direction). 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alan & Marce, 2021 July/August

Fire & Ice: a pandemic escape to Iceland - part 3 - Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

 

Proved to be as worthwhile as the recommendation of Palli led us to believe. The many beaches, coves, and steep ranges were stunning, and we found many treasures to appreciate, from the walk to the Elsborg crater, through the tiny café at Ytri Tunga beach, Gerðuberg Cliffs, Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, the black beach at Djúpalónssandur, Hellissandur murals, Öndverðarnes point, Skarðsvík beach, and up to the highest point at the glacier-topped Snæfellsjökull. From here we explored  Kirkjufellsfoss on our way east and left the peninsula on our way to the Westfjords – perceived as the remotest area of Iceland. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alan & Marce, 2021 July/August

Fire & Ice: a pandemic escape to Iceland - part 2 - South West Iceland

The trip:

We made our way to Iceland via New York, where we visited our friends JoAnn and Irwin, staying at Irwin’s apartment (many thanks again for your kind hospitality). Our brief stay included a wander around the Columbia University district, a walk the length of Central Park, a visit to MoMA, and picking up a few items we would need in the following month.

Our arrival at Keflavik, which had worried us somewhat in terms of the requirements for Covid-19 vaccination certificates which would be acceptable, was uneventful (although a potential concern with respect to our future return plans arose - more on which we’ll mention later…). When it had been required to isolate following a Covid-19 test we had booked a hotel adjacent to the airport for our first night (in reality our first morning since the flight arrived at 0600h) and we later extended the booking for a second night, so we had an afternoon and a full day to explore the area. 

Southwest Iceland:

The Viking World Museum has a Viking ship built (and sailed to Iceland) to celebrate 1000 years since the landing of Leif Eiriksson in North America. The Duus Museum and Art Centre us an eclectic collection of different aspects of local life, and we were fortunate to be there for the debut of a graduating Film Arts student whose short film was an excellent. We picked up the vehicle that day, receiving instruction in setting up the rooftop tent, which proved simple and efficient; the vehicle came with a camp table and chairs, and basic cooking kit which was adequate for the task. We were able to distribute our luggage (more than we usually have) in the back once the rear seats had been laid flat and developed a routine and layout for everything during the trip which turned out to be effective and efficient.

We left Keflavik and headed for Reykjavik, intending to explore the capital and do some shopping for food to take on our trip, following advice from those who knew of the limited availability of groceries and the higher prices outside the city. On the way we stopped at the Blue Lagoon, in which we immersed ourselves for a while in the hot waters of the lagoon. 

In Reykjavik we found the Art Museum Kjarvalsstaðir to be excellent, we walked around the downtown area: the iconic Cathedral, a bookstore to find a field guide to Icelandic birds, the Handknitting Coop, coffee at Reykjavik Roasters, and the National Museum, where the fact that the history of Iceland is short was very evident. Remarkably, the sun came out so we walked down to the “Sun Voyager” to capture a photo in this unusual condition. On the way out of town we visited a supermarket for supplies and then headed north. We stopped to visit a knifemaker whose workmanship was excellent, and enjoyed talking about his art, the changes in Iceland over the years, and received recommendations on places to go.

 

We visited the well-known plate boundary between Eurasian and North American plates at Þingvellir National Park – this is probably the best-known place where it’s possible to see plate separation at the surface, however we crossed several more, and stayed at another before leaving Iceland, at Nesjavellir. At the park we walked to Öxárarfoss, then travelled to Thorufoss, to walk the first part of the trail to Glymur. Later we explored the area to the north-east of this where we experienced the Barnafoss waterfall, Bænargil Canyon at Húsafell, and the Canyon Hot Springs.

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alan & Marce, 2021 July/August