Fire & Ice: a pandemic escape to Iceland - part 4 - The Westfjords

 

The Westfjords

 

This region is similar to the west coast of Norway, although the fjords are less steep rising from the sea. Even so it was fascinating to travel the length of each one of the fjords with the road on the opposite shore visible and knowing that it might take an hour or three to reach the other side. We enjoyed this remoter area a great deal, visiting deserted beaches and walking below steep cliffs. We saw Brekkuvellir Beach and the Kleifaheiði monument on our way to the cliffs at Latrabjarg where we had been assured that we would see puffins, which we found easily, along with razorbills, fulmars, and gulls - various). Latrabjarg is the westernmost point in Iceland – after that it’s Greenland and Canada. We camped at Breiðavik campsite and enjoyed local beers at the Hotel. From here we explored the Hnjótur Museum, Rauðisandur & Melanes Beach, Patreksfjördur, and spent some time at the Sea Monster Museum in Bíldadalir. The hot pool at Reykjafjarðarlaug was a welcome stop, and we also visited Dynjandi Foss before reaching Þingeyri which has several points of interest including the fascinating, and still operating, Blacksmith’s Shop - Vélsmiðjan Guðmundur J. Sigurðsson & Co. PU laundry. 

 





 From Þingeyri, prior to heading further northeast we explored the alleged "Worst Road in Europe" which skirts the coast northwest. We didn't make the whole circuit around the coast, which includes a section traversing a pebble beach, but went as far as the lighthouse at Svalvogaviti. The drive was excellent. 

 
The "worst road in Europe"

Our next main stop, with several sights on the way there, was Flateyri, where the Old Bookshop inevitably drew us in. The Dried Fish Museum was interesting – an original building within which were stories and displays of the fishing tradition. We continued to the trailhead for Valagil Falls and walked through the valley, finding to our surprise that the falls are not those which one initially thinks are the destination, but a waterfall hidden until one arrives close by.  

 

Heydalur campsite is in the grounds of a lodge where local, and delicious, beer can be enjoyed, following which a visit to the hot pools is appropriate. When we continued the following day we were pleased to encounter Long-finned Pilot Whales in Ísafjördur, before visiting several sights along the way eastwards (in general – getting anywhere involves multiple changes of direction). 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

Alan & Marce, 2021 July/August

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